Hanoi Restaurants

Hanoi has terrific food, both in restaurants and on the street. Here are some of my favorites:

Vietnamese: Garden cafe, 36 Hang Manh (regular and veg) tel 38243402; Ashima, 44 Phan Dinh Phung (hotpots) tel 37344600; Chim Sao, 65 Ngo Hue (seating on cushions, ethnic specialities) tel 39760633; Com Chay, 79A Tran Hung Dao (Buddhist veggie) tel 39424140; Ginger at 87C Ly Thuong Kiet tel 39412099; Press Club, especially the $10 lunch buffet at 59A Ly Thai To tel 39340888; Au Lac, 13 Tran Hung Dao (upscale) tel 39333533.

Italian: Pane e Vino, especially new branch on Hang Trong tel 38269080; Mediterraneo, 23 Nha Tho tel 38266288

Baan Thai at 3B Cha Ca St, 39232336

Vegetarian: Tamarind Cafe at 80 Ma May St, Com Chay at 79A Tran Hung Dao St

Upscale: Verticale on 19 Ngo Van So Street gets my vote for the most amazing culinary experience in Vietnam (and maybe Asia) thanks to chef Didier Corlou. Buying spices in the entrance floor of the French villa will remind you, when you’re back home, of the wonderful tastes. La Badiane has just opened on 10 Nam Ngu - French cuisine with lovely garden dining. See also Vine on Xuan Dieu, Wild Lotus on Nguyen Du St, Spice Route at the Sofitel Metropole.

Street food: Bun Cha on Hang Manh, 1 corner north of Hang Bong - the best spring rolls and grilled meat in Hanoi! Great food stalls on Quang Trung, opposite the One Pillar Pagoda. Fanny Ice Cream on the lake (Hoan Kiem) is not to be missed - try the cinnamon (que) and young rice flavors. And pho ga, the national dish of chicken soup, is best sampled at Quan Com Pho or Mai Anh, both on Le Van Huu Street. Ask for ‘quay’, a dumpling, to be added.

Continental breakfast with a view is at Cafe Le Malraux, 2 Hang Bong, 9286203 - especially when climbing all the way up to the roof terrace.  No Noodles at 57 Ma May, tel 39290006, is a takeaway and delivery sandwich place for those infrequent days when you’re desperate for non-Asian fast food. And if you’re staying for a few days and love fruit, stock up on whatever is seasonal. Apples, grapes, anona (custard apples), pineapples, bananas and oranges are all in abundance. 

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